Exploring the Heavenly Mountains (Tian Shan) in Kyrgyzstan: Tosor, Arabel & Engilchek Passes
Everything you need to know to explore the Tian Shan by 4x4, van, motorbike, or bike
At first glance, Kyrgyzstan looks like a confusing tangle of mountains sprawling in every direction. In reality, the country is crossed from east to west by the Tian Shan mountain range, or "Heavenly Mountains", whose peaks rise above the basins and valleys where human activity is concentrated.
In this article, we focus on the central part of the Tian Shan that can be explored by motorbike, 4x4, or bike, particularly the Tosor and Arabel passes and the ghost town of Engilchek.
- If you're planning a van, 4x4, motorbike, or bike trip to Kyrgyzstan, our EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book will be an invaluable help
- If you'd like to rent a vehicle (4x4, van, motorbike, or bike) in Kyrgyzstan, you'll find our recommendations here.
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Over the years, our passion for adventure has led us to create original travel guides sold in over 70 countries worldwide. Our mission is to spread a travel philosophy based on adventure, freedom, improvisation and exploration. Our guides inspire travellers to explore the world's forgotten paths, encountering wilderness and civilizations.
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Exploring the Heavenly Mountains (Tian Shan) in Kyrgyzstan
The Tian Shan in brief: geography, peaks, and UNESCO
Tian Shan means "heavenly mountains" in Chinese (天山). This Central Asian range, also known as Tengir-Too, stretches from east to west for about 2,500 km and is 100 to 400 km wide, spanning across Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and China (Xinjiang province). The two highest peaks stand on the Sino-Kyrgyz border: Jengish Chokusu, formerly Victory Peak (7,439 m), and Khan Tengri (7,010 m including its ice cap). On the Kazakh side, the Trans-Ili Alatau rises just south of Almaty; on the Chinese side, the range extends for about 1,700 km. UNESCO protects two areas: Xinjiang Tianshan (2013) and Western Tien Shan (2016), which is shared between Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan. In Kyrgyzstan, the Terskey Ala-Too borders the south of Lake Issyk-Kul, while the Kyrgyz Ala-Too separates the Chuy region from the Naryn region. It is this part of the Tian Shan, crisscrossed by old Soviet tracks, that we explore by 4x4, van, motorbike, or bike, from the Tosor and Arabel passes all the way to the Engilchek Valley.
Kyrgyzstan's elevation ranges from 401 m to 7,439 m at the summit of Peak Pobedy, the country's highest point! More than 90% of the territory lies above 1,500 m in elevation, and 41% above 3,000 m, making Kyrgyzstan a highly mountainous country and a true water tower for the region, with nearly 7,500 km² of glaciers.
The country is crossed from east to west by the Tian Shan range, which stretches over 2,000 km through Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and China's Xinjiang province to the west. In this article, we'll focus on the central Tian Shan, located southwest of Lake Issyk-Kul.
The Heavenly Mountains are mainly the domain of mountaineers and hikers, but it's also possible to explore these incredible landscapes via small mountain tracks, provided you're well informed! Most routes that reach and cross these mountains are old tracks dating back to the USSR and require an off-road vehicle (trail bike, 4x4, mountain bike). If you have a 2x4 vehicle, you can access the Arabel valley and the Kumtor gold mine (track 07 in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book) or reach the town of Engilchek (track 10 in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book).
The map below shows the various roads in the Issyk-Kul region, including the tracks in the book EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN. You can get this map, in its new 2026 edition: large format 96 x 67 cm, waterproof and tear-resistant, here.
Tosor Pass (3,893 m)
Tosor Pass, which rises to 3,893 m, lies in the Terskey Ala-Too mountain range. The track leading to Tosor Pass offers a stunning view over the Issyk-Kul basin before descending into the lush, picturesque Uchemchek valley. Amid this fascinating mountain scenery, you can discover on foot the sparkling blue waters of Lake Teshik-Kul before enjoying some soothing hot springs. A tough track meant for well-equipped, experienced adventurers!
Don't underestimate the difficulty of this track, whose condition varies greatly from year to year. You'll encounter numerous obstacles: river crossings, ruts, mud, rocks, and more.
- If you're driving, four-wheel drive is essential, and off-road tires will be a great help. Check that your tires are in good condition and don't set off without a spare tire. If you get stuck, remember to unload the vehicle or slightly deflate your tires.
- If you're cycling, it's best to have good tires and good suspension, but the scenery will make all your effort worthwhile.
- On a motorbike, your main challenge will be the river crossings, which are deeper in early summer. Also, a lighter bike will be your best ally on this tough track.
Streams of varying size cross the track that follows the Uchemchek river along the valley floor. The water level and current strength fluctuate depending on the time of day and snowmelt. In June or July, there will be more water than in August or September.
Depending on the year, snow can linger on the pass until June or even July. Be sure to check conditions before starting the climb to the pass.
"If you're hesitant about crossing a stream, one solution is to camp nearby and try the crossing early in the morning, when the water level is lower and the current is weaker. You'll find all our tips on river crossings and off-road driving in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book."
Arabel Pass and the Kumtor Gold Mine
A winding, well-maintained road leads via Barskoon Pass (3,816 m) up to the high Arabel valley, in the heart of the Heavenly Mountains. Once at 3,800 m, you'll discover a mineral landscape, sometimes covered in tundra, sometimes dotted with stunning lakes. Only the tall power pylons and the trucks supplying the massive Kumtor gold mine give away any human presence.
While access to the gold mine itself is off-limits, you can still follow the western slope of the Ak-Shyrak massif, home to magnificent glaciers. Be aware that beyond the gold mine, only off-road vehicles can pass. See track 7 in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book.
"A thousand years ago, long before this road was built, caravan traders and their silk cargo crossed the region on their way to China. This is also where explorers of our own era, like Ella Maillart or Sylvain Tesson, roamed on horseback."
After soaking in this world of ice and rock, with its unique end-of-the-world atmosphere, the most experienced and well-equipped travelers can reach the lush Burkhan valley via Arabel Pass (3,837 m). Filled with free-roaming horses and dotted with white yurts, the Burkhan valley offers an authentic taste of nomadic life.
Be warned, these landscapes come at a price! Beyond Arabel Pass (3,837 m), the track becomes difficult due to very tight switchbacks, numerous river crossings, isolation, and the poor condition of the track. It eventually leads to Naryn.
One of the trickiest sections of this track is the very steep descent into the Burkhan valley (or climb, if you're coming from the other direction). The switchbacks are very tight and the track is covered in gravel. Keep your speed under control. If your turning radius isn't tight enough, you'll need to take the bend in two moves, which can be tricky depending on your vehicle's length. With a suitable motorbike (powerful enough yet light), the climb is easy, but be careful on the way down and go easy on the front brake, as it could make you skid on the gravel. Cyclists should know that this track was part of the Silk Road Mountain Race in 2019 — a real challenge!
Engilchek or Inylchek
This remote region bordering China is known to mountaineers all over the world. It's home to the country's highest peaks, including Peak Pobedy (7,439 m) and Khan Tengri (7,010 m). Surprises like the ghost town of Engilchek, a relic of the USSR, and the hot springs of Kara Tash await you. The road to the town of Engilchek is easily accessible by car, but a permit is required to enter this border region with China. You can order your permit online here.
The once-thriving industrial town of Engilchek (Inylchek) is now a shadow of its former self. In the early 1980s, the Soviet Union brought in many young people from across the USSR to work in the mining industries it was developing in Central Asia. The town of Engilchek was built to house workers from a nearby tin mine. Houses, apartment blocks, a school, a hospital, and even an airfield were built to accommodate the town's roughly 5,000 residents. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mining operations ceased and the town was abandoned. Today, a few families still live in this ghost town, where most of the buildings stand empty.
Not far from the ghost town of Engilchek lies the Kara Tash hot spring, which is absolutely delightful. There are two open-air pools along the Sary-Jaz river. Find out more in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book.
A remote and demanding track leads to the At-Jailoo base camp. It follows the vast Engilchek valley through a wild, mineral landscape. From the camp, you can continue on foot to the Engilchek glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the world (60 km long, covering an area of 583 km² of ice). Note that this multi-day trek must be organized with an experienced guide.
Our blog posts on Kyrgyzstan
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