Exploring the Celestial Mountains (Tian Shan) in Kyrgyzstan: Tosor Pass, Arabel & Engilchek
Everything you need to know to explore the Tian Shan by 4x4, van, motorbike or bicycle
At first glance, Kyrgyzstan looks like a confusing tangle of mountains running in every direction. In reality, the country is crossed from east to west by the Tian Shan mountain range, or “Celestial Mountains” whose peaks rise above the basins and valleys where human activity is concentrated.
In this article, we focus on the central part of the Tian Shan that can be explored by motorbike, 4x4 or bicycle, in particular the Tosor and Arabel passes and the ghost town of Engilchek.
- If you're planning a trip by van, 4x4, motorbike or bicycle in Kyrgyzstan, our book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN will be a huge help
- If you'd like to rent a vehicle (4x4, van, motorbike or bicycle) in Kyrgyzstan, you'll find our recommendations here.
Hello! Nous c'est Olivia & Victor, les auteurs des guides OunTravela.
Au fil des années, notre passion pour l’aventure nous a conduit à créer des guides de voyage originaux vendus dans plus de 70 pays dans le monde. Notre mission est de diffuser une philosophie de voyage basée sur l’aventure, la liberté, l’improvisation et l’exploration. Nos guides inspirent les voyageurs à explorer les chemins oubliés de ce monde à la rencontre du sauvage et des civilisations.
On espère que cet article, basé sur notre propre expérience, vous sera utile.
Bonne lecture !
Exploring the Celestial Mountains (Tian Shan) in Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan's altitude ranges from 401 m to 7,439 m at the summit of Peak Pobedy, the country's highest point! Over 90% of the territory lies above 1,500 m in altitude, and 41% above 3,000 m, which makes Kyrgyzstan a very mountainous country and a true water tower for the region, with nearly 7,500 km² of glaciers.
The country is crossed from east to west by the Tian Shan range which stretches over 2,000 km across Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and the Xinjiang province in western China. In this article we'll focus on the central Tian Shan, located south-west of Lake Issyk-Kul.
The Celestial Mountains are mainly the domain of mountaineers and hikers, but it's also possible to explore these incredible landscapes via small mountain tracks, provided you're well informed! Most of the routes that reach and cross these mountains are old tracks dating back to the USSR and require an off-road vehicle (trail bike, 4x4, mountain bike). If you have a 2x4 vehicle, you can reach the Arabel valley and the Kumtor gold mine (track 07 of the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN) or reach the town of Engilchek (track 10 of the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN).
The map below shows the various routes in the Issyk-Kul region, including the tracks from the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN. You can get hold of this foldable A2 map here.
Le col de Tosor (3 893 m)
Tosor Pass, which reaches 3,893 m, is located in the Terskey Ala-Too mountain range. The track leading to Tosor Pass offers a magnificent view over the Issyk-Kul basin before heading into the lush, picturesque Uchemchek valley. It's in this fascinating mountain setting that you can discover on foot the sparkling blue of Lake Teshik-Kul before enjoying some soothing hot springs. A difficult track for well-equipped, experienced adventurers!
Don't underestimate the difficulty of this track, whose condition varies greatly from year to year. You'll encounter numerous challenges: river crossings, deformations, mud, rocks, etc.
- If you're in a vehicle, 4-wheel drive is compulsory and all-terrain tyres will be a great help. Check that your tyres are in good condition and don't set off without a spare tyre. If you get stuck in the mud, remember to unload the vehicle or slightly deflate your tyres.
- If you're cycling, it's best to have good tyres and good suspension, but the scenery will be worth the effort.
- On a motorbike, your main challenge will be the river crossings, which are larger early in summer. Also, a lighter bike will be your ally on this difficult track.
Different-sized streams cross the track that runs along the Uchemchek river at the bottom of the valley. The water level and the strength of the current vary depending on the time of day and snowmelt. In June or July, there will be more water than in August or September.
Depending on the year, snow can linger on the pass until June, or even July. So be sure to check conditions before starting the climb to the pass.
"If you're unsure about crossing a river, one solution is to camp nearby and attempt the crossing early in the morning, when the water level is lower and the current weaker. Find all our tips on river crossings and off-road driving in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN."
Arabel Pass and the Kumtor gold mine
A well-maintained, winding road provides access via Barskoon Pass (3816 m) to the high Arabel valley in the heart of the Celestial Mountains. Once at 3,800 m altitude, you'll discover a mineral world, sometimes covered in tundra, sometimes coloured by magnificent lakes. Only the tall electricity pylons and the trucks supplying the huge Kumtor gold mine betray any human presence.
While access to the gold mine is prohibited, it's still possible to follow the western slope of the Ak-Shyrak massif, where magnificent glaciers rise. Note that beyond the gold mine, only off-road vehicles can get through. See track 7 of the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.
"A thousand years ago, long before this road was built, caravan traders and their cargoes of silk crossed this region on their way to China. This is also where explorers of our own century, such as Ella Maillart and Sylvain Tesson, roamed on horseback."
After experiencing this world of ice and rock, with its unique end-of-the-world atmosphere, the most experienced and best-equipped travellers can reach the lush Burkhan valley via Arabel Pass (3,837 m). Full of horses roaming free and dotted with white yurts, the Burkhan valley offers an authentic taste of nomadic life.
Be warned, these landscapes have to be earned! Beyond Arabel Pass (3,837 m), the track becomes difficult due to the very tight switchbacks, numerous river crossings, isolation and the poor condition of the track. It also leads on to Naryn.
One of the trickiest sections of this track is this very steep descent towards the Burkhan valley (or climb, if you're coming from the other direction). The switchbacks are very tight and the track is covered in gravel. Keep your speed under control. If your turning circle isn't tight enough, you'll need to take the bend in two stages, which can be quite technical depending on the length of your vehicle. With a suitable motorbike (powerful enough yet light), the climb is easy, but be careful on the descent and limit your use of the front brake, which could make you skid on the gravel. Cyclists should know that this track was part of the Silk Road Mountain Race 2019, a real challenge!
Engilchek ou Inylchek
This remote region bordering China is known to mountaineers from around the world. Indeed, it's home to the country's highest peaks, including Peak Pobedy (7,439 m) and Khan Tengri (7,010 m). Surprises such as the ghost town of Engilchek, a relic of the USSR, and the hot springs of Kara Tash await you. The road to the town of Engilchek is easily accessible by car, but a permit is required to access this region bordering China. You can order your permit online here.
The once-prosperous industrial town of Engilchek (Inylchek) is now just a shadow of its former self. In the early 1980s, the Soviet Union brought in many young people from Soviet countries to work in the mining industries it was developing in Central Asia. The town of Engilchek was built to house the employees of the nearby tin mine. Houses, apartment blocks, a school, a hospital and even an airfield were built to accommodate the town's roughly 5,000 residents. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mining operations ceased and the town was deserted. Today, a few families still live in this ghost town, where most of the buildings are abandoned.
Not far from the ghost town of Engilchek is the Kara Tash hot spring which is an absolute delight. There are two open-air pools along the Sary-Jaz river. Find out more in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.
A remote, demanding track leads to the At-Jailoo base camp. It runs alongside the vast Engilchek valley through a wild, mineral landscape. From the camp, you can continue on foot to the Engilchek glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the world (60 km long and covering an area of 583 km² of ice). Note that this multi-day trek must be organised with an experienced guide.
Nos articles de blog sur le Kirghizistan
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