Visit Lake Kol-Suu in Kyrgyzstan

Hello! Nous c'est Olivia & Victor, les auteurs des guides OunTravela.

Au fil des années, notre passion pour l’aventure nous a conduit à créer des guides de voyage originaux vendus dans plus de 70 pays dans le monde. Notre mission est de diffuser une philosophie de voyage basée sur l’aventure, la liberté, l’improvisation et l’exploration. Nos guides inspirent les voyageurs à explorer les chemins oubliés de ce monde à la rencontre du sauvage et des civilisations.

On espère que cet article, basé sur notre propre expérience, vous sera utile.

Bonne lecture ! 

Le lac Kol-Suu, un joyau encore préservé

Lake Kol-Suu is without any doubt one of the most beautiful lakes in Kyrgyzstan. With its intense blue colour, the lake winds for around 16 km between high granite cliffs. Only the movement of clouds in the sky and the flight of eagles bring life to the scene in absolute silence.

The lake was formed following a landslide probably caused by an earthquake. The blocks of rock torn from the cliffs formed a natural dam that holds back the lake's turquoise waters. The panorama is exceptional.

Located close to the Chinese border, the lake is fairly isolated and a border permit is mandatory. You should allow around 4 to 5 hours' drive from Naryn to the base camp in the Kok-Kiya valley. Then allow 4 to 5 hours of hiking (round trip) on foot or on horseback to reach the lake from the Kok-Kiya valley.

Road trip to Lake Kel-Suu (4x4, van, motorbike or bicycle) from Naryn

Located around 200 km of track from the town of Naryn, Lake Kol-Suu is relatively isolated and certainly makes you work for it! The condition of the track has improved considerably since our first expedition to Kyrgyzstan in 2017. Even though we have seen cars and small 2x4 vans on it, a 4x4 is recommended as some sections can be muddy or damaged. Be especially careful at the bridges, always get out of your vehicle to check their condition before crossing.

The last 10 kilometres of track before the base camp reveal the Sary-Beles range. The viewpoints are magnificent, especially at sunset when the mountains light up in a thousand colours. You will probably come across herds of yaks! The track ends at the Kok-Kiya valley, where around twenty yurts are set up at the foot of the mountains. This is where hikes to Lake Kol-Suu begin.

You should also know that there is no supply point between Naryn and Lake Kol-Suu (no petrol station, no food shop). Bring water, food and fuel for the journey! Once at the Lake Kol-Suu base camp, it is possible to eat and sleep in one of the camp's yurts.

To find out more about the routes leading to Lake Kol-Suu, bivouac spots, or the magnificent Kok-Kiya Canyon located not far from the lake, see us on tracks 17 and 18 of the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.

The map below is taken from the book. It is also available in a foldable A2 format here.

Lake Kol-Suu on foot or on horseback?

Even though it is possible to continue to Lake Kol-Suu by 4x4 by crossing the river, we strongly recommend continuing on foot or on horseback. Not only are there a few difficulties (fording the river, muddy sections), but the increasing number of cars passing through also tends to spoil the landscape.

Hiking on foot to Lake Kel-Suu

If you would like to do the round trip to Lake Kol-Suu on foot, this represents around 12 km in total (little elevation gain). Allow 2 to 3 hours to reach the lake. The path is not clearly marked; the most important thing is to stay on the left bank of the river (i.e. the right-hand side on the way up) until the point where the river goes underground. At that point, you can cross over it without having to put your feet in the water. The path then joins a well-marked route to the lake.

Horseback trek to Lake Kol-Suu

A genuine experience that lets you enjoy the breathtaking scenery surrounding Lake Kol-Suu! The horseback ride to Lake Kol-Suu is suitable for beginners and experienced riders alike. Kyrgyz horses are very calm-tempered and you will generally be accompanied. You should allow around 2 hours on horseback to reach the lake.

To find horses, you just need to ask at the yurt camps. In 2019, you had to budget around 800 som per person for a horse and 1,500 som for the guide.

Find all our advice on horse riding in Kyrgyzstan in this article.

Lake Kol-Suu, a lake that empties?

Lake Kol-Suu is also called Kol Tethri, which means « inverted lake ». Indeed, from one year to the next the lake almost completely empties, leaving a vast bed of cracked earth. This mysterious phenomenon occurs when a warm winter is followed by an arid summer. Each winter, the lake freezes almost completely. However, when winter is too warm, the lake only freezes on the surface and a large part of its water is drained away by the Kol-Suu river. When spring arrives, the lake is normally replenished by the melting snow from the previous winter and by rainfall. If, during winter, the amount of snow on the peaks is insufficient and summer brings no rain to compensate, the lake dries up. With climate change, the lake is unfortunately destined to disappear.

The Kel-Suu lake cave

If you climb the grassy hill overlooking the lake to the right, you can reach a small cave hidden in the rocky cliff. The main cave has a narrow entrance that requires a bit of climbing. You first enter a large chamber whose floor is covered with feathers and bird droppings. The cave then descends in the form of a long passage. There are no stalactites, but the walls of the lower passage have a surprising texture reminiscent of coral reefs.

Dormir au lac Kol-Suu

Sleeping in a yurt

It is possible to sleep in a yurt at the Lake Kol-Suu base camp in the Kok-Kiya valley. Allow 800 to 1,000 som per person for a night in a yurt with dinner and breakfast.

Camping at Lake Kol-Suu

If you prefer, it is possible to camp at the foot of Lake Kol-Suu. We recommend bringing warm clothing, as the lake is at an altitude of 3,500 m! Nights can be very cold even in summer.

The Kok-Kiya canyon

A few kilometres from Lake Kol-Suu lies the magnificent Kok-Kiya canyon. The river of the same name winds through a series of narrow gorges and wider valleys where herds of yaks graze. The area is almost uninhabited; only a few rare nomadic families settle there in summer. The track to the canyon is only accessible to properly equipped 4x4s and experienced drivers. However, if you are on a motorbike or bicycle, access will be easier. See track 17 of the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.

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