Visit Lake Song-Kul in Kyrgyzstan
The different access routes (4x4, motorbike, van and bicycle) and our tips for organising a horseback trek to Song Kol lake
Perched at an altitude of 3,016 m, nestled in green scenery surrounded by mountains, Lake Song-Kul is without doubt one of the most beautiful lakes in Kyrgyzstan. Popular with visitors for its turquoise-blue waters and its shores dotted with horses and yurts in summer, Lake Song-Kul is now one of the country's must-see destinations.
In this article, you will find valuable information on the different ways to access the lake: by road (by van, 4x4, motorbike or bicycle), on horseback or on foot.
- If you're planning a trip by van, 4x4, motorbike or bicycle in Kyrgyzstan, our book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN will be a great help to you
- If you would like to rent a vehicle (4x4, van, motorbike or bicycle) or find a guide for a horseback trek in Kyrgyzstan, here are our recommendations here.
Hello! Nous c'est Olivia & Victor, les auteurs des guides OunTravela.
Au fil des années, notre passion pour l’aventure nous a conduit à créer des guides de voyage originaux vendus dans plus de 70 pays dans le monde. Notre mission est de diffuser une philosophie de voyage basée sur l’aventure, la liberté, l’improvisation et l’exploration. Nos guides inspirent les voyageurs à explorer les chemins oubliés de ce monde à la rencontre du sauvage et des civilisations.
On espère que cet article, basé sur notre propre expérience, vous sera utile.
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Lake Song-Kul, a must-see in Kyrgyzstan
Surrounded by lush pastures and snow-capped peaks, the azure-blue waters of Lake Song-Kul are breathtakingly beautiful. Lake Song-Kul also offers a true immersive experience in Kyrgyz culture. Here you can discover pastoral life across vast grasslands surrounded by mountains. A land of hiking, of horseback trekking and encounters with nomadic life, Lake Song-Kul is therefore one of the most popular destinations for tourists in Kyrgyzstan.
At 29 km long and 18 km wide, Lake Song-Kul is the second largest lake in Kyrgyzstan. The marshy and peaty areas surrounding the lake's fresh water are precious for many bird species. Some migratory birds, such as the bar-headed goose, come from the Himalayas and stay there for a short period. Even though the development of tourism brings a significant new source of income for semi-nomadic herders, the lake and its lush meadows still play an important role in their livelihood. For millennia, and still today, the lake is also a major spiritual site. Considered sacred, many Kyrgyz people come to the lake to pray.
Song-Kul lies in a sedimentary basin surrounded by mountain ranges. The lake is fed by rivers flowing down from the mountains and drains, at its south-eastern tip, into the Kokjerty river, along which lies the waterfall of the same name.
Accessing Lake Song-Kul by road (van, 4x4, motorbike or bicycle)
Suspended at an altitude of 3016m, Lake Song-Kul is surrounded by mountains. If you want to reach the lake by road, there are several routes through the mountains. These tracks are more or less well maintained and cross mountain passes above 3000m in altitude. The lake is therefore rarely accessible before June because of the snow blocking access to the passes!
One track allows you to go around the lake. On the south-eastern shore of the lake, it is a corrugated dirt track in very good condition. On the north-western side, however, the track is earthen and can quickly become muddy and difficult in bad weather. Only off-road vehicles will be able to access it.
The map below shows the various routes around Lake Song-Kul, including the tracks from the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book. You can get the complete foldable A2 map of Kyrgyzstan here.
Each of these routes is presented in detail in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN in particular the difficulty levels. To sum up, the routes via the Moldo (track 17) and Kalmak passes are well-maintained tracks, accessible to all types of vehicles. The routes via the Kara Keche and Terskey-Torpok passes (track 15) are more degraded with significant elevation changes. Even though we saw cars driving there, you'll be more comfortable with a vehicle that has high ground clearance. Finally, the routes via the Tjibel and Tuz passes (track 16) are reserved exclusively for 4x4 vehicles, mountain bikes and trail motorbikes.
Moldo Ashuu Pass (3346m)
The tight hairpin bends of the Moldo Ashuu pass (3,346 m) are impressive, but fortunately the track is well maintained! 800 m of descent over 11 km from the 1st bend. Be careful if you're on two wheels, as the road surface can be slippery due to gravel. Cyclists will need to hold on tight! The view over the valley is stunning.
Kara-Keche Ashuu Pass (3384m)
The track to the Kara-Keche pass is stony but well maintained due to the presence of a coal mine.
Kalmak Ashuu Pass (3446m)
Access to the Kalmak Ashuu pass is the easiest of all. It is a well-maintained stony track. We saw cars driving on this track.
Terskey Torpok Pass, or the Pass of the 33 Parrots (3132m)
The Terskey-Torpok pass (3,132 m) is also called the Trizat Tri Popugai pass, which means “the 33 parrots” in Russian. This name is said to refer to the 33 bends, some of which are shaped like a parrot's beak, that lead up to the pass. The slope is steep and the bends are quite tight, but the track is fairly well maintained (stony). We recommend equipping yourself with a 4x4, even though we saw standard cars get over the pass. Cyclists will need to steel themselves, as the climb is physically demanding (550 m of ascent over 5 km). The view from the pass is exceptional.
Tjibel Ashuu Pass (3227m)
The track over the Tjibel pass (3,227 m) is difficult and reserved for off-road vehicles and experienced drivers. It is a stony track with a steep climb over the last kilometre. Before that, the slope is gentler and follows a small green gorge. If you don't want to tackle this difficult track with your vehicle, it is possible to hire horses to cover the route on horseback.
Tuz Ashuu Pass (3228m)
The climb to the Tuz pass (3,228 m) is fairly steep, but the track is in relatively good condition; however, the descent towards Lake Song-Kul is more difficult, as the track is not clearly defined. It can be muddy and slippery in the rain. It is therefore reserved for off-road vehicles and experienced drivers. Don't hesitate to stop and enjoy the incredible view of the lake from the Tuz pass! There is a path that is often used on horseback by locals and tourists, which you can venture along on foot.
Horseback riding at Lake Song-Kul in Kyrgyzstan
Surrounded by vast prairies and mountains, Lake Song-Kul is one of Kyrgyzstan's top destinations for horseback trekking.
Riding horses in Kyrgyzstan means immersing yourself in the age-old way of life of the Kyrgyz nomads. It's an authentic experience that lets you enjoy the wide open spaces and breathtaking landscapes the country has to offer! This activity is suitable for both beginners and experienced riders. Kyrgyz horses have a very calm temperament and you will generally be accompanied. Depending on what you're after, you can go on a half-day ride or set off to conquer the mountains for several days.
Many agencies offer horseback excursions at Lake Song-Kul, usually a full three days, with two nights in a yurt. An experience you won't soon forget! Unfortunately, the lake is a victim of its own success. Yurt camps for tourists are taking over the shores, making the experience less authentic, and cases of horse overexploitation have been reported.
Find all our tips for organising a horseback trek in Kyrgyzstan (basic rules, equipment, animal welfare, etc.) in this article. We also recommend a few local guides we met on the ground!
Timur, the best guide for a trek to Lake Song-Kul
Timur is a young Kyrgyz guide from Song-Kul. Ever since he was a small child, he has spent the summer with his family in a yurt camp on the north-western shore of Lake Song-Kul. He learned English through contact with the tourists he loves accompanying and guiding through the mountains that surround the lake. He can answer all your questions about Kyrgyz customs and traditions. He offers a 2- to 3-day horseback trek to Lake Song-Kul that we highly recommend: a 100% local experience with, in our opinion, the best English-speaking guide in the region ! You can check prices and reviews, and contact Timur directly by clicking here.
How to find horses?
If you're planning a horseback trek in Kyrgyzstan, you can either go through a tourism agency or rent horses from locals on the spot. You will find many local agencies organising horseback excursions at Lake Song-Kul in Kochkor or Kyzart.
When you organise a tour with an agency, you are usually accompanied by an English-speaking guide and a “horseman” — that is, a person who deals exclusively with the horses (usually the owner of the horses). You pay a price that includes the horse rental, both attendants, your accommodation and your food for the duration of the trek.
The other option is to go directly through locals or nomads on the spot. The number one advantage of this approach is that you pay locals directly for their service, with no middleman. What's more, they will probably invite you to share a meal with them or join them in their daily activities. Authentic experience guaranteed! The main downside is that the horses aren't necessarily used to being ridden by beginners, which can make the experience quite physical. Also, you won't benefit from a guide's explanations about the scenery or the animals. Don't forget to set off with a French-Kyrgyz phrasebook — ours is available here.
Prices for horseback treks vary a lot depending on the location and the provider (international agency, local agency, private individual, etc.). With a local agency, budget around 1,000 soms per day for renting a horse, 2,500 soms per day for an English-speaking guide (1,500 soms per day for a guide who doesn't speak English).
For example, for a 3-day horseback tour with an English-speaking guide and a “horse man”, including two nights in a yurt and all meals, budget around 8,000 soms per person for a group of six. The price decreases as the group size increases.
We highly recommend the 2- or 3-day tours run by Timur and his family. They live in the village of Kyzart and own two yurts on Lake Song Kul. A 100% local experience with, in our opinion, the best English-speaking guide in the region! You can check prices and reviews, and contact Timur directly HERE.
Sleeping at Lake Song-Kul: yurt or camping out?
When you arrive at Song-Kul, you will probably be surprised by the number of yurts dotting the landscape. Indeed, the flip side of Lake Song-Kul's popularity is, of course, the relative loss of authenticity of its shores, overrun, in July and August, with yurt camps aimed at tourists.
Small yurt camps generally belong to semi-nomadic families. In addition to their herding activity, some families have invested in one or two yurts to host the growing number of tourists visiting the lake.
Beyond four or five yurts, it is most likely a camp built by an agency and specially set up to host tourists. These camps can have up to 20 yurts! You will sometimes even find beds inside for extra comfort, but keep in mind that Kyrgyz people traditionally sleep on the floor on mats. We recommend approaching the small camps directly, where the welcome is generally warmer and the atmosphere more like family.
Even though these “tourist” yurt camps are becoming more and more numerous on the shores of the lake, it's reassuring that this type of accommodation is removable and blends perfectly into the landscape. If you have your own vehicle, don't leave your non-biodegradable waste with your hosts, as it will be burned or buried on site. Budget between 800 and 1,000 soms per person for the night and breakfast. For meals, it varies between 300 and 400 soms. Don't hesitate to negotiate if you're travelling in a group.
For those who want to camp out, you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to finding a spot. Do watch out for the temperature change between day and night, though — you might be surprised by the cold! You might also be woken up in the morning by horses or cows! Be careful not to leave any waste behind.
Lake Song-Kul in winter
In winter, the lake freezes with ice up to 1.2 m thick. It begins to thaw in April and disappears completely by the end of May. Fishermen come to fish in the lake during winter. It is even possible to organise a horseback trek to reach the lake in winter, but you'd better not be sensitive to the cold! The lake is very rarely accessible by vehicle in winter, due to snow blocking the passes.
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