Visit Lake Kol-Suu in Kyrgyzstan

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Lake Kol-Suu, a still-preserved gem

Lake Kol-Suu is without a doubt one of the most beautiful lakes in Kyrgyzstan. A deep intense blue, the lake winds for around 16 km between towering granite cliffs. Only the movement of clouds in the sky and the flight of eagles bring the scene to life, in absolute silence.

The lake was formed following a landslide, probably caused by an earthquake. The rock blocks torn from the cliffs created a natural dam that holds back the lake’s turquoise waters. The panorama is exceptional.

Located near the Chinese border, the lake is quite remote and a border permit is mandatory. Allow around 4 to 5 hours’ drive from Naryn to the base camp in the Kok-Kiya valley. Then plan 4 to 5 hours of hiking (round trip) on foot or on horseback to reach the lake from the Kok-Kiya valley.

Road-Trip to Lake Kel-Suu (4x4, van, motorcycle or bike) from Naryn

Located around 200 km of track from the town of Naryn, Lake Kol-Suu is fairly remote—and you’ll have to earn it! The condition of the track has improved significantly since our first expedition to Kyrgyzstan in 2017. Even though we’ve seen cars and small 2x4 vans driving it, a 4x4 is recommended as some sections can be muddy or damaged. Be especially careful around the bridges: always get out to check their condition before crossing.

The last 10 kilometers of track before base camp reveal the Sary-Beles range. The viewpoints are magnificent, especially at sunset when the mountains light up like a thousand sparks. You’ll probably come across herds of yaks! The track ends in the Kok-Kiya valley, where around twenty yurts are set up at the foot of the mountains. This is where the hikes to Lake Kol-Suu begin.

You should also know that there is no resupply between Naryn and Lake Kol-Suu (no gas station, no grocery store). Bring water, food and fuel for the journey! Once at Lake Kol-Suu base camp, you can eat and sleep in one of the camp’s yurts.

To learn more about the routes leading to Lake Kol-Suu, bivouac spots, or the magnificent Kok-Kiya Canyon located not far from the lake, head to tracks 17 and 18 in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.

The map below is taken from the book. It is also available in a foldable A2 format here.

Lake Kol-Suu on foot or on horseback?

Even though it’s possible to continue to Lake Kol-Suu in a 4x4 by crossing the river, we strongly recommend continuing on foot or on horseback. Not only are there a few difficulties (river crossing, muddy sections), but the growing number of vehicles also tends to spoil the landscape.

Hiking to Lake Kel-Suu

If you want to do the round trip to Lake Kol-Suu on foot, it’s around 12 km in total (little elevation gain). Allow 2 to 3 hours to reach the lake. The trail isn’t clearly marked; the most important thing is to stay on the left bank of the river (i.e., on the right-hand side as you go up) until the point where the river goes underground. There, you can cross over without getting your feet wet. The path then joins a well-marked route to the lake.

Horse trek to Lake Kol-Suu

An authentic experience that lets you enjoy the breathtaking landscapes surrounding Lake Kol-Suu! The horseback ride to Lake Kol-Suu is suitable for both beginners and experienced riders. Kyrgyz horses have a very calm temperament and you will usually be accompanied. Allow around 2 hours on horseback to reach the lake.

To find horses, you just need to ask at the yurt camps. In 2019, you should expect around 800 soms per person for a horse and 1,500 soms for the guide.

Find all our tips for horseback riding in Kyrgyzstan in this article.

Lake Kol-Suu, a lake that empties?

Lake Kol-Suu is also called Kol Tethri, which means “inverted lake”. In fact, from one year to the next, the lake almost completely empties, leaving a vast bed of cracked earth. This mysterious phenomenon occurs when a warm winter is followed by an arid summer. Each winter, the lake freezes almost completely. However, when the winter is too warm, the lake only freezes on the surface and a large part of its water is drained by the Kol-Suu river. When spring arrives, the lake is normally fed by snowmelt from the previous winter and precipitation. If, during winter, there isn’t enough snow on the peaks and if summer brings no rain to compensate, the lake dries up. With global warming, the lake is unfortunately doomed to disappear.

The Lake Kel-Suu cave

If you climb the grassy hill overlooking the lake on the right, you can reach a small cave hidden in the rocky cliff. The main cave has a narrow entrance that requires a bit of climbing. You first enter a large chamber whose floor is covered with feathers and bird droppings. Then, the cave descends in the form of a long corridor. There are no stalactites, but the walls of the lower corridor have a surprising texture reminiscent of coral reefs.

Sleeping at Lake Kol-Suu

Sleeping in a yurt

It’s possible to sleep in a yurt at Lake Kol-Suu base camp in the Kok-Kiya valley. Expect 800 to 1,000 soms per person for one night in a yurt with dinner and breakfast.

Camping at Lake Kol-Suu

If you’d like, it’s possible to camp at the foot of Lake Kol-Suu. We recommend bringing warm gear, as the lake is still at 3,500 m above sea level! Nights can be very cold even in summer.

Kok-Kiya Canyon

A few kilometers from Lake Kol-Suu lies the magnificent Kok-Kiya Canyon. The river of the same name winds through a series of narrow gorges and wider valleys where herds of yaks come to graze. The area is almost uninhabited; only a few rare nomadic families settle here in summer. The track to the canyon is only accessible to well-equipped 4x4s and experienced drivers. On the other hand, if you’re on a motorcycle or a bike, access will be easier. Head to track 17 in the EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book.

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