Visit Lake Kol-Suu in Kyrgyzstan

Lake Kol-Suu, an unspoilt gem

The lake was formed by a landslide, probably caused by an earthquake. Boulders torn from the cliffs have formed a natural dam that holds back the lake’s turquoise waters. The panorama is exceptional.

Located close to the Chinese border, the lake is fairly isolated and a border permit is required. It’s a 4-5 hour drive from Naryn to the base camp in the Kok-kiya valley. From the Kok-Kiya valley, it’s a 4-5 hour round trip on foot or horseback to reach the lake.

Road-Trip to Lake Kol-Suu (4×4, van, motorcycle or bicycle) from Naryn

Located about 200 km from the town of Naryn, Lake Kol-Suu is relatively isolated and well worth a visit! Track conditions have improved significantly since our first expedition to Kyrgyzstan in 2017. Although we saw cars and small 2×4 vans on the road, 4×4 is recommended, as some stretches can be muddy or damaged. Be particularly careful at bridges, and always get out of your vehicle to check their condition before driving over.

As Lake Kol-Suu is part of a regulated border zone, you’ll need a border permit to get there. You can order your border permit online in advance. Your permit will be checked at a military post located shortly after the Kindi pass, at an altitude of 3,400 m.

The last 10 kilometers of track before base camp reveal the Sary-Beles range. The views are magnificent, especially at sunset when the mountains light up with a thousand lights. You’ll probably come across herds of yaks! The trail ends in the Kok-Kiya valley, where some twenty yurts are located at the foot of the mountains. This is the starting point for hikes to Lake Kol-Suu.

You should also be aware that there are no supplies between Naryn and Lake Kol-Suu (neither gas stations nor food stores). Bring water, food and fuel for the journey! Once at the Kol-Suu Lake base camp, you can eat and sleep in one of the camp’s yurts.

To find out more about the routes to Lake Kol-Suu, bivouac spots and the magnificent Kok-Kiya Canyon not far from the lake, see tracks 17 and 18 in the book EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN.

The map below is taken from the book. It is also available in foldable A2 format here.

Lake Kol-Suu on foot or horseback?

Although it is possible to continue to Lake Kol-Suu by 4×4 across the river, we strongly advise you to continue on foot or horseback. Not only are there a few difficulties (fording, muddy passages), but the increasing number of cars also tends to alter the landscape.

Hike to Lake Kol-Suu

If you’d like to walk to Lake Kol-Suu and back, it’s a total of around 12 km (with little change in altitude). Allow 2-3 hours to reach the lake. The trail is not clearly marked, but the most important thing is to stay on the left bank of the river (i.e. on the right-hand side as you go up) until the river goes underground. At this point, you can cross over without having to put your feet in the water. The path then joins a well-marked route to the lake.

Horse trek to Lake Kol-Suu

An authentic experience to enjoy the breathtaking scenery surrounding Lake Kol-Suu! The horseback ride to Lake Kol-Suu is suitable for beginners and experienced riders alike. Kyrgyz horses have a very calm temperament and you will usually be accompanied. It takes about 2 hours on horseback to reach the lake.

To find horses, simply visit the yurt camps. In 2019, it cost around 800 soms per person for a horse and 1,500 soms for the guide.

Read all our tips for horse riding in Kyrgyzstan in this article.

Lake Kol-Suu, an emptying lake?

Lake Kol-Suu is also called Kol Tethri, which means “inverted lake”. In fact, from one year to the next, the lake empties almost completely, leaving a vast bed of cracked earth. This mysterious phenomenon occurs when a warm winter is followed by a dry summer. Every winter, the lake freezes almost completely. However, when winter is too warm, the lake only freezes at the surface, and much of its water is drained by the Kol-Suu river. When spring arrives, the lake is normally fed by the previous winter’s snowmelt and precipitation. If there isn’t enough snow on the summits in winter, and if summer brings no rain to compensate, the lake runs dry. With global warming, the lake is unfortunately doomed to disappear.

The Kol-Suu lake cave

If you climb the grassy hill overlooking the lake on the right, you can access a small cave hidden in the rocky cliff. The main cave has a narrow entrance that requires a bit of climbing. We first enter a large room whose floor is covered with feathers and bird feces. The cave then descends in the form of a long corridor. There are no stalactites, but the walls of the lower corridor have a surprising texture reminiscent of coral reefs.

Sleeping at Lake Kol-Suu

Sleeping in a yurt

It’s possible to sleep in a yurt at the base camp on Lake Kol-Suu in the Kok-Kiya valley. Expect to pay 800-1,000 som per person for a night’s accommodation in a yurt, including dinner and breakfast.

Camping at Lake Kol-Suu

If you wish, you can camp at the foot of Lake Kol-Suu. We recommend you bring warm clothes, as the lake is at an altitude of 3500m! Nights can be very cold even in summer.

Kok-Kiya Canyon

A few kilometers from Lake Kol-Suu lies the magnificent Kok-Kiya canyon. The eponymous river meanders through a series of narrow gorges and wider valleys grazed by herds of yaks. The area is virtually uninhabited, with only a few nomadic families settling here in summer. The trail to the canyon is accessible only to equipped 4x4s and experienced drivers. On the other hand, if you’re on a motorcycle or bicycle, access will be easier. Go to track 17 in the book EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN.