Tash-rabat and the baetov region of kyrgyzstan

The Silk Road

For over a thousand years, the Silk Road was a network of trade routes from China to the Mediterranean. Bringing together very different civilizations, this network of land and sea routes enabled not only trade, but also philosophical, religious, scientific, cultural, artistic and technical exchanges. Chinese silk was just one of the goods that passed through the mythical cities of Samarkand and Bukhara, along with spices, carpets, furs, horses, weapons, glassware and more. Long and tiring, the merchants’ routes varied according to natural hazards and local conditions. They had to cross the fearsome Gobi and Taklamakan deserts, survive attacks by nomadic horsemen or cross the Celestial Mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Each route was punctuated by relay stations and caravanserais where merchants could refuel, rest and trade their wares. One of these caravanserais has stood the test of time and can be visited in southern Kyrgyzstan: the Tash-Rabat caravanserai.

The Tash-Rabat caravanserai

Along the road between Naryn and the Torugart Pass (3,752 m) on the Chinese border, a small track winds its way towards the At-Bashi Mountains in a narrow valley with splendid jagged rock faces. On the slopes of the valley, at an altitude of 3,500 m, stands the sumptuous caravanserai of Tash-Rabat. This historic monument, which dates back to the 15th century, welcomed a multitude of merchants and travellers along the Silk Road. Thewell-preserved stone building houses a network of small rooms that served as bedrooms, prison cells, pantries and prayer halls. Admission to the caravanserai is charged at 50 soms per person. The caravanserai is surrounded by a yurt camp for visiting tourists.

The area around Tash-Rabat is ideal for hiking and horse-riding. There are 1- to 5-day itineraries across the At-Bashi mountain range to Lake Chatyr-Kul. The surrounding area is magnificent, especially the Tash-Rabat pass at 3,964 m, with its superb views over the great Chatyr-Kul lake. A border permit is required to use the hiking trails leading down to the lake. Don’t hesitate to ask at the various yurt camps about possible itineraries.

Lake Chatyr-Kul

Largely ignored by tourists, due to its remoteness and the need to obtain a border permit to visit it, this salt lake is nevertheless an unspoilt, wild place well worth a visit. Accessible by a day’s ride on foot or horseback from Tash-Rabat, you may be lucky enough to spot rare migratory birds such as the bar-headed goose or the damselfly crane. Starting from Kyzyl-Tuu (a village 75 km west of Naryn), a 3-day horseback ride through the At-Bashi mountains leads to the Chatyr-Kul lake and ends with the Tash-Rabat caravanserai. Information on this tour is available from Naryn agencies.

The Baetov region

Baetov

With a population of almost 10,000, Baetov is an important stopover between Naryn and Kazarman. While the town itself is of little interest, it is nevertheless a good refreshment point on the way to Lake Song-Kul or Kazarman. Here you’ll find hostels, restaurants, supermarkets, banks and petrol stations. From Baetov, you can choose between two routes to Tash-Rabat: one is easier, via Orto-Syrt and the MELS pass (3,262 m); the other is more difficult and longer, via the Djaman Davan Suu canyon.

The track between Baetov and Tash-Rabat

A rather well-maintained dusty track links Baetov to Tash-Rabat. After crossing the Baetov and Terek oasis, the track enters an arid zone of badlands with a lunar landscape. It then passes over two passes offering spectacular views of the region: the Borulu Ashuu Pass (3,262 m), also known as MELS after the initials of Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin, and the Kulak Ashuu Pass (3,390 m). Ruins of ancient mausoleums and nomad camps line the route. The track is not very difficult, but it is not perfectly maintained. A more challenging route through a canyon is possible for the more adventurous among you. For more information on these trails, please visit trail 20 in the book EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN.

Don’t forget to stop off at the Terek cemetery to appreciate the beauty of the traditional war memorials, known as gombèzes.

For more information on the Baetov region and its trails, please refer to the book EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN.

The map below, available in fold-out A2 format, illustrates the country’s main roads and the 24 trails in the EXPLORE KIRGHIZISTAN book, which are accessible to vans, 4x4s, motorcycles and bicycles. The map also lists over 50 sites of tourist interest across the country. On the back of this card you’ll find a complete Kyrgyz-French lexicon to help you start a conversation in the yurt!