What to do around Lake Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan?

Hello! Nous c'est Olivia & Victor, les auteurs des guides OunTravela.

Au fil des années, notre passion pour l’aventure nous a conduit à créer des guides de voyage originaux vendus dans plus de 70 pays dans le monde. Notre mission est de diffuser une philosophie de voyage basée sur l’aventure, la liberté, l’improvisation et l’exploration. Nos guides inspirent les voyageurs à explorer les chemins oubliés de ce monde à la rencontre du sauvage et des civilisations.

On espère que cet article, basé sur notre propre expérience, vous sera utile.

Bonne lecture ! 

Lake Issyk-Kul, the pearl of Central Asia

From its warm, salty waters to its golden sandy beaches, only the snow-capped peaks surrounding it betray the true nature of Lake Issyk-Kul, nicknamed “the Kyrgyz sea”. Perched at an altitude of 1,609 m, Issyk-Kul is one of the largest high-mountain lakes in the world. Bordered to the north by the Kungey Ala-Too mountains and to the south by the Terskey Ala-Too mountains, it is fed by the hundreds of rivers that flow down these mountains.

Thanks to a temperate microclimate, the lake's shores have attracted people for thousands of years. The numerous archaeological sites scattered around the lake are a reminder of the region's prehistoric and ancient civilisations.

Today, a very well-maintained paved road allows you to drive all the way around the lake. Unlike the north shore, which saw a flourishing of tourist infrastructure during the Soviet era, the south shore remains fairly wild and offers a lively, vibrant nomadic cultural experience.

Created in 1948, the Issyk-Kul lake reserve is one of the oldest in Central Asia. The reserve's wildlife includes more than a hundred bird species that can be observed fairly easily along the lake's shores. Some of the lake's wetlands form wintering sites of major importance for migratory waterbirds. Notable waterbird species include the white-headed duck, an endangered species, as well as the common coot and the common pochard, which are fairly common in the area. You may also spot gulls and rarer birds such as the greater flamingo or the whooper swan.

Discovering the lunar landscapes of Lake Issyk-Kul's south shore

Canyon of the Forgotten Rivers

Between Kyzyl-Tuu and Bokonbaevo, a small track runs along the lake shore and lets you explore the lunar landscapes of the Canyon of the Forgotten Rivers, named after the hundreds of dried-up rivers that have carved the rock over the centuries. A few succulent plants and multicoloured flowers dot the landscape. Every now and then, a small lizard crosses the dusty track and an eagle circles high in the sky in search of prey. If you're lucky, you might even come across some camels. It is possible to camp out by the lake and swim along small deserted beaches. You'll find more information about this track in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN, it's track 5.

 Jeti-Oguz

The splendid red sandstone cliffs of Jeti-Oguz or the Seven Bulls attract many visitors. Since they get packed during the day, we recommend visiting early in the morning or late in the day, when the light makes the cliffs glow red. For more peace and quiet, we suggest exploring the neighbouring valley: see track 9 in the book EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN.

After about twenty kilometres, the Jeti-Oguz valley widens into a vast summer pasture (jailoo) nicknamed the Valley of Flowers, because in spring it is covered with thousands of wild flowers: tulips, poppies, crocuses, and more. The valley is also known for its mushrooms!

Skazka Canyon, or Fairy Tale Canyon

Also known as Fairy Tale Canyon, the Skazka Canyon offers lovely walks among red sandstone cliffs sculpted by erosion. The entrance to the valley is about 8 km from the village of Tosor. Entry to the site costs 50 soms per person. It's best to go early in the morning or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the sometimes stifling heat of the summer months. The light will only be more beautiful!

Discovering nomadic games and traditions

Bokonbaevo

Bokonbaevo is the most important town on the south shore of Lake Issyk-Kul between Balykchy and Karakol. You'll find every amenity here: shops, restaurants, guesthouses, banks, petrol stations, garages. This is also where you can arrange various tourist activities such as eagle hunting demonstrations or traditional carpet-making (shyrdak). In August, the Birds of Prey Festival is held. If you pass through in July, the Teskey-Jeek Ethno-Festival is held just a few kilometres away in the neighbouring town of Ton. To find out the dates, programme and prices of the various festivals, you can ask directly at the tourism agencies in Bokonbaevo.

Kyzyl-Tuu

While it's true that there are few architectural remains in Kyrgyzstan, the long tradition of yurt-making is still very much alive, and its secrets are revealed in Kyzyl-Tuu. It is in this small, prosperous village that craftspeople make a large share of the country's traditional yurts. It is possible to visit one of these workshops or take part in yurt assembly/disassembly activities. In March, the Kyrgyz National Game Festival is held in Kyzyl-Tuu featuring traditional music concerts, eagle hunting demonstrations and nomadic games.

Eagle hunting

Eagle hunting is a tradition that has been passed down from father to son for centuries. Once practised to obtain food and fur during the harsh winter months, this form of hunting very nearly disappeared during the Soviet era. There are only a few dozen eagle hunters (berkutchi) still practising the hunt in Kyrgyzstan. They showcase their art through tourism and traditional nomadic festivals. Respected figures, they are seen by the Kyrgyz as the guardians of nomadic traditions.

Ask at the agencies in Bokonbaevo to attend a demonstration.

World Nomad Games in Cholpon-Ata

The World Nomad Games are an international competition celebrating nomadic sports that aren't featured at the Olympic Games, such as Kok-Boru, horse racing, mounted archery, horseback wrestling, and more. Teams from all over the world, particularly from Central Asia and the Middle East, are invited to take part in the games, which are traditionally held in Cholpon-Ata, Kyrgyzstan.

Far more than just a competition, this event is the largest gathering of nomadic peoples in the world. The festival also features traditional dance and music performances, eagle hunting demonstrations, yurt-building displays, and more. A true journey into the heart of nomadic culture! 

The first three editions of the World Nomad Games were held in the town of Cholpon-Ata. The 2020 edition, due to be held in Turkey, was postponed because of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Equestrian competitions are regularly held at the Cholpon-Ata hippodrome. You can go and watch!

Discovering the historic sites of Lake Issyk-Kul

The Ornek Museum

The village of Ornek is home to a small museum where you can discover some interesting archaeological finds : ceramics, utensils, cavalry equipment, traditional clothing, carpets, and more.

The Cholpon-Ata museum and petroglyphs

This mid-sized town of 8,000 inhabitants welcomes many Russian and Kazakh tourists every year, drawn by the handful of hotel complexes and sanatoriums built on the lake shore during the Soviet era. If you pass through, don't miss the Cholpon-Ata museum  where you'll find numerous ancient artefacts bearing witness to Kyrgyz and pre-Kyrgyz nomadic cultures  on display: tools, carpets, jewellery, musical instruments, and more. For the modest sum of 200 soms, you can also hire a guide to accompany you to the petroglyph site north of the town. This remarkable archaeological site is home to hundreds of petroglyphs, the oldest of which date back to the 8th century BC. The engravings and paintings depict scenes of everyday life and hunting as well as animals and shamanic rituals.

The San-Tash burial mounds

Near the Karkyra valley, close to the San-Tash pass (2,195 m), lies the San-Tash archaeological site: some dozens of burial mounds, or kurgans, dating back to the 6th century BC, as well as a strange mound of stones 4 m high and 56 m wide called “San-Tash” which means “counting the stones”. According to legend, it dates back to the 15th century, at the time of Tamerlane's military campaigns. While Tamerlane was leading an attack on China, he ordered each of his soldiers to bring a stone from Issyk-Kul here to measure the size of his army. It is said that an old sage, wanting to teach Tamerlane a lesson about the cost of war, suggested he order his men to pick up a stone from the pile on their way back from the war. The pile of stones left behind then represented the number of soldiers who had died during his campaigns.

The Tibetan petroglyph of Tamga-Tash

A rare, thousand-year-old testament to the reach of Tibetan Buddhism as far as Central Asia, this block of stone carved with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum in Tibetan script is not easy to find. From the village of Tamga, you'll need to follow the river of the same name for about 5 km before you find it.

The most beautiful beaches of Lake Issyk-Kul

Although the lake sits at an altitude of 1,607 m, the water can reach 24°C in summer ! In fact, the lake never freezes in winter, hence its name Issyk-Kul, which means “the warm lake”.

There are numerous seaside resorts built during the Soviet era on the lake's north shore. The most famous are those of Cholpon-Ata and Bosteri. You'll find large resorts there offering all-inclusive packages that Russian and Kazakh tourists love! Best avoided if you don't want to end up wedged between two towels on a crowded beach!

If you prefer quieter beaches, we recommend heading towards Tosor or Tamchy. The water is clear and the sand is fine. Many Kyrgyz families come here in summer.

And if you want to discover small, deserted beaches, head to track 5 of our EXPLORE KYRGYZSTAN book.

Discovering the Karakol livestock market

The town of Karakol is the main base camp for tourists heading off to tackle the Tian Shan mountains. You'll find many travel agencies, guesthouses, restaurants and other amenities there. Don't miss its beautiful Orthodox church, built entirely of wood! Every Sunday morning at dawn, the Karakol livestock market is held. Every week, this market brings together livestock farmers from the region who come to sell their animals: cows, sheep, horses, and more. The atmosphere is a real change of scenery!

Hiking in the misty mountains

The south shore of Lake Issyk-Kul is bordered by the Terskey Ala-Too range. Terskey Ala-Too means “the misty mountains” or “the mountains in the shade”, as opposed to the Kungey Ala-Too, “the sunny mountains”, which lie on the lake's north shore, on the border with Kazakhstan. Reminiscent in places of Switzerland, these mountains are full of hiking trails, winding through pine forests, high-altitude meadows, lakes and glaciers.

Many hikes are perfectly accessible and can be done independently. Do bear in mind, though, that there is no signposting on the trails and where there is any, it's in Russian. To find hiking maps, you can contact the Trekking Union of Kyrgyzstan. Otherwise, you can use apps such as Maps.me or Wikiloc. If you're heading into the high mountains, especially for several days, it's strongly recommended that you go with a guide. You'll find local guides at the many agencies in Karakol, which is the main base camp for tourists heading off to tackle the Tian Shan mountains.

Lake Ala-Kul

Nestled at an altitude of 3,560 m in the Terskey Ala-Too range, between the Karakol and Altyn-Arashan valleys, this magnificent glacial lake is very popular with hikers who come to explore the region. The hike to Lake Ala-Kul can take between 2 and 4 days depending on the route taken, and requires good physical fitness. If you're not used to high-mountain trekking, we recommend setting off with a guide (easily found in Karakol).

Karakol Valley

Karakol Valley is known for its ski resort, Karakol Ski Resort, one of the largest in the country with more than 20 km of slopes. The starting point for the hike to Lake Ala-Kul is also at the far end of this valley. Simply follow the Karakol river up to a small wooden bridge.

Altyn-Arashan Valley

Altyn-Arashan Valley is the starting point for many treks into the Terskey Ala-Too, in particular towards Lake Ala-Kul. You'll also find numerous hot springs there, ideal after a big hike! There are paid pools as well as free natural springs, which aren't easy to find!

Ak-Suu Valley

At the entrance to the Altyn-Arashan valley, on the left, is the access point to the Ak-Suu valley. Popular with locals for its numerous hot springs and its sanatorium, it also offers plenty of walking opportunities. The pools are developed and entry is paid.

Barskoon Waterfalls

About 20 km from the village of Barskoon, up the valley, there are beautiful waterfalls along the road. A short one-hour walk takes you up to a viewpoint over the three consecutive waterfalls in the gorge. Watch out, it's uphill! You'll probably be offered a horseback ride up. At the foot of the waterfall you'll find a few yurts where you can get something to eat. The site is very touristy.

 The Jirgalan area

This small village at the foot of the mountains is a well-known base camp for hikers in the region. You'll find a few guesthouses and guides to accompany you on horseback or on foot through the region's mountains. The road there is in very good condition.

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