On the road to Omalo: A complete guide to visiting Georgia’s Tusheti region

Why visit Georgia’s Tusheti region?

The Touchétie region is both mysterious and fascinating. Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus mountains, Tusheti is completely isolated in winter when its only access road is blocked by snow. Bordered by the Russian republics of Chechnya and Dagestan, this remote Georgian region is inhabited by the Touches, a mountain people from Georgia. The region is remarkable for its vernacular architecture, characterized by slate roofs and formidable defensive towers. But Tusheti is also one of the country’s best preserved natural parks. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks, the park offers breathtaking mountain scenery. The slopes of its deep valleys are covered with thick forests and alpine meadows. What’s more, there’s no shortage of hiking trails in this province, where you’re bound to come across a few shepherds and their flocks! If you love the great outdoors or want to discover Georgia off the beaten track, don’t hesitate for a second 🙂

What you need to know before visiting Tusheti

When is the best time to visit Tusheti?

Due to heavy snowfalls, Tusheti is completely cut off from the rest of the world in winter. Depending on the year, the only access road to Omalo is open from early June to late September.

In June, the high meadows are carpeted with wild flowers and the peaks are still covered in snow. It’s absolutely magnificent, even if there are a few drawbacks: the trails can be muddy and the rivers, full of water, can block certain tracks.
July-August is probably the best period, but it’s also the one that attracts the most visitors. This is the best time for hiking and camping. There are also many traditional village festivals in summer.
September sees the arrival of autumn colors and cooler nights. The first snows usually arrive in early October, by which time the road to Tusheti is likely to be closed.

How much time should you allow for Tusheti?

It takes about a day’s drive to get to Tusheti. We recommend that you spend at least two days on site, for a total ofat least four days.

Are there any distributors in the Czech Republic?

There are no ATMs in Tusheti, so bring enough cash to cover your expenses. You’ll also need to bring your own provisions, as the few grocery stores that do exist are very expensive (due to their isolation).

Are there any gas stations in Tusheti?

There are no gas stations in Tusheti, so consider filling up in the village of Kvemo Alvani, the last gas station before Omalo. If you cover all of tracks 4 and 5 in our Explore Georgia guide, the total distance covered will bearound 250 km. We advise you to bring a few jerry cans of petrol for peace of mind.

Where to eat and sleep in Tusheti ?

Wild camping is permitted in the park, and is an experience not to be missed! You’ll be alone in the middle of nature, and you’ll have the chance to contemplate a starry sky free of light pollution.

Near the main villages (Omalo, Dartlo, Diklo, etc.), you’ ll easily find small guesthouses with prices ranging from 70 to 120 GEL per person (dinner and breakfast included). It’s an opportunity to learn more about Touche culture and support local communities.

There are also a number of restaurants where you can sample local specialities. If you’re camping or hiking, we recommend that you bring provisions: there are only a few stores in Omalo, prices are higher and choice is very limited.

Is there internet and electricity in Tusheti?

Most villages in Tusheti, such as Omalo, Dartlo, Shenako and Diklo, have 4G coverage and reliable phone reception. We were pleasantly surprised by the excellent coverage throughout our trip, as we regularly picked up 4G. While coverage is poor (or non-existent) on the road to Tusheti, it becomes relatively stable once you reach Omalo. In the region, Magti is the preferred supplier, because it offers the best coverage.

Electricity is available in the main villages, but its reliability is not guaranteed. In fact, not all the villages in the area are connected to the main electricity grid, and rely on solar power and petrol generators as their main sources of energy.

How do I get to Omalo in Tusheti? Abano Pass

Snow-covered for half the year, the Col d’Abano is the only way to reach the mythical Touchétie. The route officially begins in the village of Pshaveli, 460 m above sea level. Impressive and dizzying at the same time, the mountain trail first crosses narrow gorges covered with lush forests. It then crosses meadows carpeted with wild flowers before a series of switchbacks lead to the highest point: the magnificent Abano pass (2,826 m). From here, the trail gradually deepens into the Touchétie National Park, known for its alpine landscapes that are home to many rare and endemic species. Finally, the route ends in Omalo, the administrative capital of Tusheti, and the starting point for numerous hikes to the wild valleys and historic sites of the surrounding area. A winding track leads to the villages of Dartlo, Parsma, Girevi, Shenako and Diklo, which are well worth a visit!

To plan your 4-5 day itinerary in Tusheti, from Pshaveli to Girevi and Diklo, visit tracks 4 and 5 in our Explore Georgia guide. We spent ten days exploring the region, and have compiled the best of the trip on high-resolution satellite maps with all the camping spots and viewpoints. You’ll also find historical information on the Touche culture, as well as explanations of the region’s landscapes, flora and fauna. For those who prefer, we provide GPS tracks and a tourist map of the country.

The “road of death”: is it really dangerous?

This road is widely considered to be one ofthe most dangerous in the world, and is sometimes referred to as the “road of death”. Unfortunately, it has been the scene of many deaths due to landslides and avalanches. However, it’s not particularly difficult to drive if you have an off-road vehicle and track experience.

Most of the Touchétie road is unpaved. The track, on a mountainside, is narrow and steep, sometimes allowing only one vehicle to pass. The bends can be very sharp, so drive carefully. Don’t hesitate to honk your horn if you can’t see around a bend, to signal your presence. Numerous waterfalls flood the trail, so watch out for small streams and puddles along the way. Heavy rains often cause rocks to fall onto the road, so watch out for debris and potholes. In principle, the runway is regularly cleaned by the government, but prevention is better than cure! Avoid this route in bad weather (fog, heavy rain, snow).

Which vehicle is recommended for the Omalo route?

We recommend the use of a 4×4 all-terrain vehicle, a trail-type motorcycle or an ATV, as the road is in poor condition: muddy sections, deep puddles, small fords (<50 cm), gravel, sand and steep slopes.

How long does it take to reach Omalo?

The Touchétie road, also known as the Pshaveli-Abano-Omalo road, isaround 70 km long. Driving time is around 4 to 5 hours, depending on road and weather conditions.

Omalo isn’t actually that far, but the state of the road means you can only drive very slowly.

From Tbilisi to Omalo, it takes 7 to 8 hours.

When is the Touchétie road open?

Depending on snow conditions each year, the Omalo route is open from early June to late September/early October. To keep up to date with the opening of the Touchétie road, you can join our discussion group on facebook: Overland Georgia.

What are the safety rules for driving on this road?

1. Check road conditions: The government starts clearing snow from the roads in June and maintains them until the end of September. However, as rockfalls are fairly frequent, it’s not uncommon for the road to be closed for a few days or for work to be carried out on the road.
2. Check the weather forecast – for the last few days and the next few: if it rains, the risk of landslides is higher, and the trail is flooded by waterfalls coming down from the mountain. In addition, the fog makes driving difficult and the tracks muddy. Avoid this route in bad weather.
3. Stock up on food, money and fuel before you leave.
4. Leave early in the morning: on average, the journey takes 4 to 5 hours, but can be slowed down by roadworks, landslides, accidents or fog. It’s best to start your trip early to make sure you get to Omalo before nightfall.

Is there public transport to Touchétie?

You’ll find plenty of shared cab drivers in Kvemo Alvani, the last town down the road to Tusheti. It costs around GEL 60-70 for a seat in a shared cab to the village of Omalo. If you’re coming from Tbilisi, you can take a Marshrutka to Telavi. The fare is 12 to 15 GEL and the journey takes 1h30. In Telavi, it’s very easy to find a cab driver who will take you to Kvemo Alvani. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs about 10 GEL per person.

Visit Omalo village and Keselo fortress

The village of Omalo is the administrative capital of Tusheti. It’s an excellent base camp for touring the region, with numerous guesthouses and restaurants. With the influx of tourists in recent years, new accommodations are springing up and the village is booming. To discover the old and typical parts of the village, you need to go to the upper part, “Upper Omalo”, dominated by the Keselo fortress.

The Keselo fortress was built in the 16th century and is an excellent example of medieval Swabian architecture. In summer, the inhabitants of the town would take to the defensive towers to protect themselves from attacks from neighboring Dagestan or Chechnya. After the annexation of Georgia by Russia in the 19th century, the inhabitants gradually moved into the more comfortable houses that today make up the upper part of Omalo. The towers, which were falling into disrepair, were finally restored in the 2000s. One of the towers houses a small ethnographic museum. The fortress is within walking distance of Upper Omalo.

Explore the charming medieval village of Dartlo

Clinging to the mountainside at an altitude of 2,000 m, Dartlo is undoubtedlyone of the most beautiful villages in Tusheti. It is particularly noteworthy for its medieval architecture, characterized by slate roofs, formidable defensive towers and charming carved wooden balconies. Thanks to private and government funding, the village was fully restored in 2012. A stroll through the hamlet’s narrow streets will take you back in time. A few petroglyphs are hidden in the village (signposted at the village entrance). There are several guesthouses and restaurants. This unique historic site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, can be discovered on Route 5 of our Explore Georgia guide.

Shenako-Diklo

As you approach the village of Shenako, you’ll be able to see the abandoned houses dotting the hillside, which were once winter cottages and stables. The village center of Shenako is still inhabited by a few families, but only in summer. Saint-Georges church is the focal point. It was built in the 19th century by Orthodox missionaries. Diklo is the last inhabited village before the border with Dagestan. Dried bouquets of wild marjoram, chamomile and St John’s wort hang on the stone walls, alongside hand-knitted socks and slippers. With its picturesque rural atmosphere and traditional stone houses, the village is absolutely charming. Here you’ll find a number of guesthouses and souvenir stalls run by local residents. A pagan shrine is also located in the center of the village. On the mountain opposite Diklo are the last remains of the Diklo fortress.

Trekking in Tusheti: between Omalo and Shatili, the Atsunta pass

This five-day hike links the mountainous regions of Tusheti and Khevsouretia. Along the way, you’ll admire ancient fortresses and villages, dominated by huge stone towers. Bring your camping gear, as there are only a few shepherds’ huts along the road between Girevi and Shatili. The highlight of the hike is the arrival at the Atsunta pass, at 3,431 m altitude.
Distance: 70 km
Duration: 5 days

Tip: instead of walking along Track 5 on the first day, you can take a hiking trail along the Pirikita Mountains. You’ll miss the village of Dartlo, but you’ll have better views of the valley and won’t have to walk alongside cars.

Our products on Georgia