The Georgian Military Route: 10 must-see stops from Tbilisi to Kazbegi

Why should you visit the Georgian Military Route?

Georgia’s military road is an ideal destination for those on a tight schedule or looking for a quick escape from the capital to the mountains. The road is paved and open all year round. It’s only a short day’s drive from Tbilisi. The scenery along the way is simply stunning, with the jagged peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, lush valleys and picturesque churches dotting the landscape. You’ll come across historic sites such as the Ananouri fortress and theTrinity Church of Gergeti, which offer a glimpse into the region’s fascinating past. The only border crossing between Georgia and Russia is at Zemo Larsi/Verkhny Lars on the Georgian military road between Kazbegi (Georgia) and Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia).

What you need to know before your military road trip

A brief history of the Georgian military road

The Imperial Military Road is a historic route linking Georgia to Russia through the high mountains of the Greater Caucasus. The road was built after the annexation of Georgia by Russia at the end of the 19th century, to facilitate the entry of imperial troops into the territory. Following the Aragvi and Tergi valleys, then the Darial Gorge, the route follows the ancient passageway used by Persian, Roman and Mongol invaders and Silk Road merchants. Numerous historical relics line the route, from the medieval fortress of Ananouri to the monument to Russian-Georgian friendship, which offers incredible views over the Aragvi valley. Although closed for two years after the 2008 war, this road is still a major link between Georgia and Russia, and has becomeone of the country’s most popular tourist routes.

When is the best time to visit the Military Route?

Although the road is open all year round, the risk of avalanches in winter and rockfalls in spring is higher, particularly on the stretch of road between Gudauri and Kazbegi. Normally, the road is closed for just a few hours after it has been cleared, but it can sometimes last for several days. There’s a big ski resort in Gudauri, so they try to keep the road clear throughout the winter season.

July and August are “high season” on the military road, when many residents of the capital Tbilisi choose to travel. The attractions along the route are therefore more crowded. That’s why we think the best time to visit the Military Route is between June and September.

How long does it take to cover the Georgian military route?

The Georgian military road is around 220 kilometers long and can be covered in a day. However, we recommend that you allow at least two days to take in all the sights and attractions along the way.

Georgia-Russia border crossing

Zemo Larsi / Verkhnij Lars is the only border crossing between Georgia (Kazbegi) and Russia, more precisely the Russian Republic of North Ossetia-Alania (Vladikavkaz). It is still open to international travelers despite the situation in Ukraine. Note that you can’t cross the border on foot; you have to hitchhike if you’re not in a car or bus. You can, however, cross it by bike. You’ll find all the latest updates on border crossings here or in our Overland Georgia Facebook group.

What’s the best way to visit the Georgian Military Route?

Driving on Georgia’s military road: What is the condition of the road?

The best way to discover the Georgian Military Route is to set off in your own vehicle, which means you can stop wherever you like, as there’s no shortage of viewpoints along the way! The road surface is fully asphalted, but can be quite uneven and potholed in places, especially on mountainsides. However, major efforts have been made to improve the pavement in recent years and it is generally well maintained. Outside winter, the road is not a problem. As this is the only access route to Russia, many goods trucks travel along the road. Don’t be surprised by the hundreds of goods trucks queuing on the side of the road, waiting patiently to cross the border.

Public transport: shared cabs or marshrutkas from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?

There are two other ways of getting from Tbilisi to Kazbegi: collective cabs and marshrutkas. The shared cab, which can be found at the Didube station, offers a fast, economical ride, with the option of making stops along the way. It is possible to negotiate the fare, which is usually around 25 GEL for a seat. The marshroutka vans leave every hour from the Didube bus station and offer a fixed price of 15 GEL. However, they don’t make photo stops along the way!

Our Explore Georgia guide

All the information in this article is based on our experience, our research and, above all, our Explore Georgia travel guide. For more details on this route and Georgia’s most beautiful itineraries, our Explore Georgia guide may be useful. We’ve compiled the country’s most beautiful trails on high-resolution satellite maps, complete with camping spots and viewpoints. You’ll also find historical information on Georgian culture, as well as explanations of the landscape, flora and fauna. For those who prefer, we provide GPS tracks and a fold-out tourist map of the country.

10 must-sees along the military road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi

1. Mtskheta

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the town of Mtskheta stands majestically at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. From the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD, it was the capital of the Kartlie kingdom. It was also in Mtskheta that Christianity finally took root in Georgia, following the evangelizing work of Saint Nino. The city boasts a number of remarkable religious monuments, including the Svetitskhoveli cathedral and the Jvari monastery overlooking the city. Although Mtskheta has lost its political role, it remains an important religious and spiritual center of the country.

2. Ananuri fortress and Zhinvali reservoir

At the edge of the military road, the medieval fortress of Ananouri does not go unnoticed. Its fortifications, dating from the 17th century, overlook the turquoise waters of the Jinvali reservoir. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it includes an Orthodox monastery and several churches, including the large Church of the Assumption, remarkable for the sculptures on its façade and the perfectly preserved interior frescoes.

3. Pasanauri

Pasanauri is often referred to as the “cradle of khinkali”. Indeed, the large Georgian ravioli served here are said to be among the best in the whole country. On our recent trip and on the recommendation of some friends, we opted for the Korbuda restaurant. The khinkalis were delicious!

4. Sno village and Juta valley

Located at the bottom of the Sno valley, at 2200m altitude, the small khevsour village of Juta attracts many visitors, as it is the starting point for a splendid 3-day trek through the Chaukhi massif. If you don’t want to do the 3-day trek, you can take a 3-4 h h hike (round trip) to beautiful viewpoints on the massif. The path runs through flower-filled meadows surrounded by mountains, but can be very busy in summer. The trail to the village of Juta is not difficult. There are numerous inns, restaurants and a campsite in the village.

If you have a little time, it might be worth making a brief stopover in the village of Sno. This picturesque mountain village is famous for its natural mineral springs. The village also boasts an unusual attraction known as“Giant head sculptures“, as shown on Google Maps. Just before reaching the village, you’ll come across a handful of huge stone heads scattered across a field. Each depicts the image of a Georgian national poet, and was created by a local artist named Merab Piranishvili.

5. Goudauri and the monument to Russian-Georgian friendship

Located just 120 km from the capital, along the military road, the Goudaouri ski resort is very popular. The ski area, which extends over 57 km of pistes between 2000 and 3300 m, offers ideal conditions for both downhill skiing and free riding. The town has many tourist facilities (hotels, restaurants, etc.) and is a good refreshment point on the Stepantsminda route. In summer, you can enjoy paragliding, hiking and climbing in the surrounding area. A magnificent panorama of the valley can be enjoyed from the monument to Russian-Georgian friendship. The monument was built in 1983 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk and celebrate diplomatic relations between Russia and Georgia. It was designed by Georgian architect George Chakhava.

6. Jvari Pass or Cross Pass

The road culminates at the Jvari pass (2395m), which offers breathtaking scenery. Whether covered in snow or adorned with lush vegetation, the Great Caucasus unfolds its full grandeur. On the way, you’ll pass a small cemetery where World War II German POWs are buried, having helped build the bridges and tunnels of the military road. The Jvari pass offers impressive views, inviting you to roll down the window and savor the fresh air for the remaining 25 kilometers to Kazbegi. In addition, the road is dotted with mineral springs where you can stop to fill your water bottles, some offering sparkling mineral water known for its therapeutic properties. Some springs, with their vibrant colors resulting from mineral deposits, offer an astonishing spectacle.

7. Truso Valley

A dirt track runs alongside the Terek river, opening out onto the vast meadows of the Trusso valley, colored white and red by the many ferruginous springs bubbling up from the mountains. You’ll be amazed by the imposing fortress-villages that line this wild, virtually unpopulated valley. You can drive (4×4 required) or hike to the Zakagori fortress. In our opinion, it’s a must on the military route. You can discover this magnificent valley on Track 1 of our Explore Georgia guide. We provide full details of the route, campsites and viewpoints on high-resolution satellite maps.

8. Trinity Church of Gergeti

The sumptuous Church of the Holy Trinity in Guerguéti is probably one of the most photographed in Georgia. And with good reason: the church, perched at an altitude of 2170m, overlooks the Tergi valley, in an exceptional panorama around Mount Kazbek (5047m). It is accessible via a newly paved road or hiking trail. Once in Stepantsminda, cabs are waiting to take you to Guerguéti Trinity Church. If you’re in a hurry, you can pay 15 GEL per person for a seat in a shared cab to the church and back, with a brief wait at the church itself. We do, however, recommend walking up to the church!

9. Hiking on the Kazbegi glacier

If you have the whole day at your disposal, it’s possible to hike beyond the Trinity Church of Gergeti to the Kazbegi glacier. You can continue further west, towards Mount Kazbek. After an hour’s tedious ascent, you’ll reach a stone cairn – this spot is known as the Arsha Pass and offers the first views of the Gergeti glacier. This is also where many people turn around. Only the most persevering will keep on walking, crossing a few streams, and reach the foot of the glacier. If you start early, you can even reach the former Betlemi hut weather station at 3600m altitude (and return the same day) – but this is a challenge only for very fit hikers. On average, it takes around 5 hours to climb to the glacier and 3 hours to return. Of course, it all depends on your walking speed and the number of breaks you take.

10. Excursion to the Gveleti waterfalls

About 7 km north of the village of Stepanstsminda are two beautiful waterfalls called Gveleti. To reach them, you don’t need to walk far; it’s a fairly easy stroll. The round trip from the main road to the two waterfalls takes around 1 hour. It is possible to go deeper into the valley by 4×4. Both waterfalls can be reached in 30 minutes on foot.

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