Visit Georgia’s Svaneti: 4-day itinerary via Mestia and Ushguli

Why should you visit Georgia?

Surrounded by some of the country’s highest peaks, Svaneti boasts a breathtaking landscape. The slopes of its deep valleys are covered with impenetrable forests and high-altitude meadows. Georgia’s highest peak, Mount Chkhara, rises to 5,201m. There’s also Mount Ouchba (4,710 m), towering above Mestia, the regional capital. Svaneti is the kingdom of the Svans, a people of Georgian mountain dwellers who speak their own language and have a strong cultural identity. The imposing watchtowers that dominate the landscape are the symbol of the region. In medieval times, each family had its own defensive tower to protect itself from invaders and vendettas. Long cut off from the rest of the world, Svaneti is now accessible all year round via an asphalt road linking Zugdidi to Mestia. A great deal of work has been undertaken in recent years to open up the region and develop tourism. Some villages, like Ushguli, have retained their charm and authenticity. What’s more, the province has no shortage ofwilderness and hiking trails, where you’re bound to come across a few shepherds 🙂

What you need to know before visiting Svaneti

A brief history of Georgia

With its abundant mineral resources such as gold and copper, Svaneti has long contributed to the wealth of the Kingdom of Colchis, while also attracting the attention of the ancient world’s greatest empires. Its traditional gold-mining techniques inspired the Greek myth of the Golden Fleece. Surrounded by imposing peaks, the Svan people were isolated in winter and depended on animal husbandry and forest resources. Although part of the Kingdom of Georgia, the Svans retained their autonomy and flourished culturally under the reign of Queen Tamar. The need to defend their territory against invaders, as well as the violent vendettas that pitted families and clans against each other, influenced the shape of the buildings constructed by the Svans over time. Indeed, Svaneti is famous for its high stone defensive towers built between the 9th and 12th centuries. Russian control was subsequently limited, with a few local noble families holding power. Natural disasters and the collapse of the USSR led to a severe economic and social crisis at the end of the 20th century, but stability was restored by 2004. The completion of the Zugdidi-Mestia road in 2011 has boosted tourism, providing opportunities for economic improvement, and many families have returned to the region in search of a better life.

When is the best time to visit Svaneti?

The answer depends on the type of traveler you are, but all seasons are ideal for exploring this magnificent corner of the world! Winter is perfect for those who love ski touring or downhill skiing.

Spring (from mid-May) is ideal for hiking enthusiasts, as wildflowers start to bloom and temperatures are mild.

The summer months, from July to early September, are the hottest and most popular for visiting Svaneti. Summer is probably the best option if you want to drive beyond Mestia (Ushguli, Zagari Pass, Latpari Pass). The road to Mestia is open all year round. The village of Ushguli, on the other hand, is completely cut off from the world in winter. The Ushguli road and Zagari pass are open between June and October, depending on the year and snow conditions.

Although quite rainy, autumn is a pleasant time to admire the yellow and orange foliage and attend the various cultural festivals that take place during this season.

How many days should I allow for my stay in Svaneti?

We highly recommend spending at least 3-4 days in the region. You’ll have plenty of time to explore the mountain valleys, go hiking and visit the various cultural sites that Svaneti has to offer. What’s more, spending a night or two in a local guesthouse will give you a taste of Svan hospitality and culture.

Where to eat and stay in Svaneti?

When it comes to dining and accommodation options in Svaneti, there’ s something for every taste and budget. For outdoor enthusiasts, wild camping is permitted, but be sure to find a spot away from houses and respect the “Leave No Trace” principles. Guesthouses in Svaneti are generally family-run. They offer home-cooked meals, so it’s the perfect opportunity to sample local specialties and interact with the locals. Spending a night in the village of Ushguli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an experience not to be missed! Here you can stay in traditional stone houses and enjoy breathtaking views of Mount Chkhara. Many guesthouses also offer guided tours and activities such as hiking and horseback riding.

Traditional dishes not to be missed in Svaneti

The cuisine of Svaneti is renowned for its hearty, rich dishes, perfect for cold winters. Here are some of the traditional dishes not to be missed:

• Svanetian salt : It’s not really a dish, but it’s an essential part of Svanetian cuisine. This unique local blend of spices and salt adds instant flavor to every dish.
• Kubdari (meat loaf): This is a bread stuffed with meat, containing minced beef, Svanetian salt, onions, garlic and, optionally, chilli pepper to spice things up. It is baked in the oven until crisp and delicious.
• Tashmijabi (cheesy potatoes): Mashed potatoes mixed with local cheese, usually sulguni, creating a stretchy, flavorful paste.
• Fetvraal (Khachapuri svanétien): Variation on the famous Georgian dish, khachapuri. Fetvraal uses a specific mountain cheese blended with green millet flour from Svaneti, which is unique to the region.
• Svan Chvishtari (millet bread with cheese): A lighter version of traditional Georgian Chvishtari, made with green millet flour and local cheese.
• Mountain honey: Svaneti produces its own honey from local wild flowers, which can be purchased directly from roadside beekeepers.
• Kartoplaar (Khachapuri with potatoes and cheese): Variant of khachapuri filled with potatoes and local cheese.
• Mushroom kubdari: vegetarian version of kubdari, with mushrooms instead of beef, often available on request.

Getting to Mestia by public transport: marshrutka or shared cabs

From Zugdidi, you can take a marshrutka to Mestia. The fare is around GEL 40 and the journey to Mestia takes around 4 hours.

Shared cabs are also available from Zugdidi. Expect to pay around GEL 45-50 for a seat in a shared cab, or GEL 180-200 for the whole car. Travel time is slightly faster, around 3 to 3.5 hours.

If you’re coming from Tbilisi, there’s an overnight train to Zugdidi!

Our 4-day itinerary via Mestia and Ushguli

The following points are the highlights of a 4-5 day itinerary from Zugdidi to Lentekhi via Mestia and Ushguli. For more details on this itinerary, see tracks 19, 20, 21 and 22 in our Explore Georgia guide. We’ve compiled the best of Svaneti on high-resolution satellite maps with all the camping spots and viewpoints. You’ll also find historical information on Svane culture, as well as explanations of the region’s landscapes, flora and fauna. For those who prefer, we provide GPS tracks and a tourist map of the country.

The road from Zugdidi to Mestia

Long cut off from the outside world, Svaneti is now accessible all year round thanks to a tarmac road linking Zugdidi to Mestia. Known as the “Svaneti Highway”, the road between Zugdidi and Mestia offers a picturesque journey through the magnificent mountains of the Greater Caucasus. Road conditions may vary according to weather conditions and maintenance work. Some sections of the road may have potholes or rough spots, particularly out of season or after heavy rain, but overall it’s a well-maintained road. From Zugdidi, the journey generally takes 3 to 4 hours and covers a distance ofaround 140 km. It can be longer if you stop at the many viewpoints along the way 🙂 Most tourists stop at the Enguri dam. From Kutaisi, the journey takes at least 4 hours.

Visit the defensive towers of Mestia

Nestled among the snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus, the town of Mestia is remarkable for its impressive defensive towers, typical of Svaneti. This ancient medieval town is the administrative and economic center of the region. Accessible all year round via an asphalt road from Zougdidi, it makes an excellent base camp for visiting the region. There are numerous restaurants, inns and tourist agencies for all kinds of mountain activities. Don’t miss out on a visit to one of the town’s three museums, which provide a very interesting insight into Svans history and cultural identity: Mikhail Khergiani House Museum, Margiani’s House Museum and the superb Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography. The town, which boasts two ski resorts, also attracts many tourists in winter.

Koruldi Lakes hike

Starting from Mestia, this short 28 km (round trip) dirt track takes you to the heights and offers exceptional views of the snow-covered peaks of the Greater Caucasus. Gradually, the trail rises above the deep Mestia valley through fir and spruce forests to the summit of Tshakazagari, from which many paragliders take off. The trail then climbs to a small plateau at 2740m altitude, where the Koruldi lakes are surrounded by meadows. The view is already impressive at this point, but it’s even better from the Koruldi ridge, which can be reached on foot. Here you’ll discover the vertiginous slopes of Mount Ouchba (4710m) and its thousand-year-old glaciers nestled among the mountains. This route is quite popular in summer due to its proximity to Mestia. A 4×4 is required to cover this trail, but it is possible to climb it on foot. More information on track 19 of the Explore Georgia guide.

Visit Ushguli, the most beautiful village in Svaneti

The small medieval village of Ushguli, nestled at an altitude of 2,100 m, is without doubt the most beautiful village in Svaneti. Its beauty lies as much in its impressive thousand-year-old defensive towers as in the panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks of Mount Chkhara (5193m). The greatest empires of the ancient world fought over this territory, but the boldness of its warrior people, its isolation and the extreme climate have all contributed to the village’s preservation over the last few centuries. Nicknamed the “Intrepid Heart”, Ushguli is one of the best-preserved examples of Swabian defensive architecture. After ascending the turbulent waters of the Ingouri River, through a narrow canyon, the trail rises in the middle of a misty, wild valley. The first stone towers rise like impassive guardians, and the village is revealed against the backdrop of the country’s highest peak. In dry weather, the track to Ushguli presents no particular difficulties, but it can quickly deteriorate (mud, landslides) in bad weather. Find all the information on trail 20 (detailed map, bivouac spots, difficulties, etc.) in the Explore Georgia book.

Take time to explore the village’s winding lanes before setting off on the final stretch of the trail to the foot of the Chkhara glacier. The best-preserved and most picturesque part of the village is Chazhashi, located at the confluence of the Inguri and Shavtskala Kvishara rivers. We recommend climbing the hill above it, where you’ll find Queen Tamar’s tower. The view of the village is very beautiful. Don’t miss a visit to theLamaria church and the ethnographic museum.

Hike to the Chkhara glacier

A dirt track leads to the foot of the north face of Georgia’s highest peak, Mount Chkhara (5193m). If the sky is clear, the jagged ridges of the peak and its glacier can be seen from the track. This trail(16 km round trip) runs alongside the Ingouri River, through vast meadows bordered by forests. You’ll have to cross a few streams, but with no appreciable difficulty. However, in wet weather, the track can quickly become impassable due to mud, and a 4×4 is essential. At the end of the trail, a small café welcomes tourists in summer, especially hikers, many of whom make the ascent to the glacier. We therefore advise you to park here and continue on foot. The round trip to the glacier should take about 1h30. If you start the hike from Ushguli, it will take you around 5 hours to get to the glacier and back.

Zagari Pass

The Zagari pass (2,620 m) allows you to leave (or reach) the village of Ushguli from the east via a relatively well-maintained level 2 track (see track 21 in the Explore Georgia book). Apart from a monastery and a few shepherds’ camps, you won’t come across a single dwelling for the 20 km between Ushguli and Tsana. From Ushguli, the track rises gently through vast meadows, before plunging into the Koruldashi valley to the village of Tsana. From the pass, the panorama of the jagged ridges of the Ailama (4547m) and Tsurungali (4250m) peaks is breathtaking. In dry weather, the trail presents no great difficulty, being a dirt and gravel track. It is only open from late June to October, depending on snow conditions. After Tsana, the road is under construction as far as Mele, alternating between asphalt and dirt tracks.

Latpari Pass

Take to the skies and discover the world of ice and rock that secretly dominates the deep valleys of Svaneti. This winding, demanding track crosses the Svaneti mountain range that separates the provinces of Upper and Lower Svaneti via the Latpari pass (2834m). The trail offers sublime panoramic views of the country’s highest peaks, including Mount Tetnouldi (4858m). If the sky is clear, you can even catch a glimpse of Mount Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak at 5621m. Beware, these landscapes have to be earned! The trail is graded level 4 because of the tight switchbacks and steep slopes. Get ready to climb 1200m of ascent in 9km on the north side, then hurtle down 1900m of ascent in 13km on the south side. A powerful 4×4, a light motorcycle or good physical condition are strongly recommended to reach the top of the Latpari pass. More details on this itinerary can be found on track 22 of the Explore Georgia guide.

The most beautiful hikes around Mestia in Svanetia

Hiking on the Chalaadi glacier

An easy hike takes you to the front of the Chalaadi glacier. The trail, which winds between 1400m and 1800m above sea level, takes in the magnificent high-mountain scenery of Svanetia. It’s a 45-minute climb from the wooden bridge, where you can easily park your vehicle. First you cross a pretty forest, then follow the stream to the glacier. Don’t get too close to the glacier, as crevasses and rockfalls can occur. The hiking trail is very popular in July and August.

Hiking on the Ushba glacier

A superb moderate-to-difficult hiking trail leads to the famous Ouchba glacier at 2200m altitude. The route traverses sumptuous landscapes of meadows, forests, rock and ice. Allow around 10km (round trip) and 800m ascent from the “Hiker’s café”, near which there’s a pleasant bivouac spot. The climb is gentle to the Shdugra waterfall, then more demanding to the glacier front. Red and white markings show the way. Beware: beyond the waterfall, a border permit is required. This permit is free of charge and must be applied for at the tourist information center or the Mestia police station. Don’t get too close to the glacier, as crevasses and falling rocks can be dangerous.

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